Organic? Gluten-free?

Try Vantra, a pioneer in London for its goal to offer delicious food that is also good for the body – raw and gently cooked foods, free from MSG, GMOs, and artificial colorings. Located right in Soho Square, the window of artfully displayed, gorgeous food will tempt you right inside.

BTW – you must try this almond milk shake – pineapple basil – my first sip swept me into the stratosphere.

Biodynamic
What does it mean when a wine is certified as biodynamic? In short, the winery and vineyard has achieved the rigorous scrutiny of the Demeter Association, an internationally recognized organization that upholds the near-religious philosophies of Rudolph Steiner, originally suggested in 1924. On a practical level, biodynamic practices are strictly based on self-sufficient ecology. They embrace the idea that all the elements of our world are connected in a delicately balanced system, and the farm (grape or otherwise) should operate in tune with the universe.

A requirement biodynamic viticulture is the series of unique “preparations” that take the place of conventional fertilizer, pesticide, and herbicide. Most of these concoctions involve manure, a cow horn (which provides silica), and herbs. The preparation is mixed together, placed into the cow horn, buried for a prescribed period of time, then mixed with water so they can be sprayed onto the vineyards. There are specific days of the astrological year during which the vines are more receptive to the necessary processes of pruning, harvesting, fertilizing; biodynamic farmers will time their vineyard maintenance calendar accordingly.

Organic
Organic wines are usually wines made from organically farmed grapes. That is, the vineyard was cared for with naturally-derived products instead of the chemical regime used in most conventional vineyards. Once the grapes are harvested, non-natural additives, most notably sulfur (a preservative), could be part of the winemaking process. Definitions and certification standards vary throughout the world, so “organic” might at times denote attitude more than any specific method. In the US, an “organic wine” has been certified as involving no chemicals in the grapegrowing or winemaking process.

The appeal of “organic” is that the final product, the wine you’re enjoying over a nice Bolognese, is free of any residue of pesticide or herbicide. If vineyard workers have to wear hazmat suits while spraying those chemicals, why would you want to drink them? “Fair dinkum,” the Australians would say (translation: Ain’t that the Truth, mate!). On a philosophical level, some argue that conventional farming practices wipe out the myriad minor variations in soil and site from vineyard to vineyard. Equalizing fertilizers and chemical sprays wipe out whole concept of “terroir”—the uniqueness of place that makes for exciting uniqueness in wine.

Natural
“Natural wine” takes the organic concept a step further into the winery, and often means the wine does not include any added sulfur dioxide. There is no certification or regulation overseeing the criteria for calling a wine “natural.” Here I take issue. First, really there is no such thing as a sulfur-free wine, since all fruit—including grapes—contain a natural level of sulfur. Even a wine with no added sulfur dioxide contains about 10 milligrams of sulfur per liter of liquid. Secondly, wine does not tend to hold up well without sulfur. From an objective standpoint, this means the wine, however nice at the outset, often takes a significant hit to its quality once it starts to age in bottle. Red wines fare better than white because the antioxidants in the grape skins (hence the color red) act as a preservative. White wine, which does not spend time in contact with its skins, does not benefit from the same natural protection, so without sulfur almost immediately starts to pick up a vinegary, stale smell.

I should note too that some people are very affected by sulfur, and can get awful headaches if they drink overly-preservative-laden wine. This genuine health consideration is partially behind the move towards a “natural” designation on wine labels. However, most well-made wine from quality fruit needs very little added sulfur to stay vibrant in bottle. The wines that give headaches tend to be cheaper stuff, held together for longer than their natural lifespan by the addition of sulfur.

What’s it all about?
The first major question is whether “biodynamic,” “organic,” and “natural” wines have any benefits for the consumer in terms of health or quality. Experienced professional tasters have had numerous publicized blind comparisons that put biodynamic wines ahead of conventionally farmed wines. Some highly regarded vineyards—notably in Europe, the US, and Australia—have overseen successful conversion to biodynamic principals. Organic wines are easier to come by, and run the gamut from truly spectacular to quite ordinary. I personally have yet to taste a sulfur free or “natural wine” that has justified the hype. They may be out there… I hope so… the idea is nice.

The science here is dicey. Many biodynamic winemakers will confess they don’t necessarily know why, but their switch to biodynamic practices led to improved quality overall. Practitioners say you cannot go biodynamic by degrees. That is, turning a vineyard mostly biodynamic apparently does not result in incremental improvement… you have to go whole hog. Yet there is almost no empirical evidence proving biodynamic preparations are better for vineyard health than conventional sprays, or that the calendar for fruiting and flowering is accurate. There is a great deal of skepticism in the wine world about biodynamic practices, and a strong argument that the real quality improvement comes not from the practices themselves, but rather from the extra attention paid to maintain healthy vineyards. Does it really need to be biodynamic or organic? Hard to say.

It’s really all about philosophy and options, here with wine as with all other products. Many people look towards natural products because they are opposed to putting extra chemicals or whathaveyou into their bodies. Some do not want to support vineyard practices that put chemicals or whathaveyou into the environment. Some people just enjoy the idea. It’s a little like vegetarianism in the sense that many are followers, few for the exact same reasons.
All that said, as ever, I urge you out into your favorite wine store armed with some questions. What locally available wines are biodynamic, organic, or natural? Are they tasty? Are they a good value? Is the philosophy worth supporting? More to come on this theme, so stay tuned!

The Singing Tree Cafe, Siem Reap, Cambodia

This wonderful restaurant, the Singing Tree Cafe in Siem Reap, Cambodia, has the most stunning, relaxing hideaway garden. Another huge plus – it’s organic!

Admiring the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela, Spain

As no surprise to some of you, Spain has some incredible food: Navarra with its jamons, salchichons (cured sausage), and chorizos, La Rioja with its wines, Galicia with its cheese and seafood (pulpo, razor clams, fish).

Baby squid and razor clams, Finisterre, Spain

Its peppers are green as emeralds and its hot chocolate thick as thieves. Even its version of cocoa powder, Cola Cao, is a celebration in a cup. Its Coca-Cola is made with sugar, not high fructose corn syrup (why, USA, why?).

Cola Cao

Simple meals made with fresh ingredients and sensible portions, all shared in the social activity known as eating.

Family meal

However, Spain also has its fair share of pre-packaged sweets, chips, and pastries filled with additives that people devour. No where is safe from overly processed food, it seems.

Junk food

As we ate our way through the country (literally), I could not help thinking: where did this lomo (pork) come from? In the U.S., I would ask, knowing ftom where my meat comes. But there, I did not know, and in the tiny villages (i.e., population: 26), one cannot be overly picky with limited options (it is tough to be vegetarian on the Camino unless you eat cheese sandwiches every day).

Folks with whom we chatted noted that, unlike the U.S., where 80% of the meat comes from four giant companies, agriculture remains mostly mom and pop operations. Although this may not help Spain’s broader economy, it certainly helps maintain a healthier and safer food system.

Jamon

As I was walking, I read two must-read books (believe it or not, it’s not easy finding time to read every day on the Camino): Tomatoland by Barry Estabrook (follow his blog, Politics of the Plate) and Poisoned by Jeff Benedict. Without going into too much detail – you just have to read them – these incredibly crafted books had me up in arms the whole way.

We ate a lot of tomatoes on the Camino. We would find these sometimes gorgeous, sometimes gorgeously misshapen, but always juicy, sweet, and flavorful. After a long day of walking and heavy lunch, we would sometimes savor a simple meal of bread, tomatoes, and tuna. The majority of the tomatoes we ate (found in small fruit and vegetable stores and not large supermarkets) were likely grown on a smaller-scale operation, if not in someone’s backyard. They weren’t uniform, but they sure had flavor.

Local tomato

Estabrook’s Tomatoland traces the tomato industry in the U.S., from the terrifying amount of chemicals used to create bland red orbs to the devestating treatment of the people who pick them so that Americans can have cheap tomatoes, this account will force you to open your eyes and question before eating that tomato in your sandwich – if not for flavor, then perhaps for health? Or concern for a fellow human being?

Tomatoland by Barry Estabrook

Concern for fellow human beings is also what drove the force of nature Bill Marler (follow his blog here)  to battle and help change the food industry after the E. Coli out break in Jack in the Box in the 1990s, as outlined in Poisoned. Imagine taking your kid to eat a few bites of burger and then having to bury her the next week. That’s what happened to some of these families. Benedict’s account is gripping, and the story, told from all sides (victims, Jack in the Box, lawyers), is a critical lesson in what can horribly wrong as the result of simply eating and what can go wonderfully right when people (including those at the helm of fast food companies) want to do the right thing.

Poisoned by Jeff Benedict

Reading bits and pieces about the current salmonella outbreak in ground turkey (Marler is at the forefront of sounding the alarm – can I start a Bill Marler fan club, or would he be too weirded out by that?), I couldn’t help but wonder what the heck I was eating, and what policies are in place in Spain (let’s not forget the recent bean sprout outbreak). One saving grace was that in many of the places I ate, the seafood was caught that morning or the meat was slaughtered at the family farm.

Even then, however, we can never be certain. As our food system becomes more processed, more industrialized, more impersonal, eating has become less of a social and gastronomical engagement, and more like a high-stakes game of Russian roulette. For others, like the people who pick our tomatoes but do not make enough to eat them themselves, eating – especially eating well and healthily – is a luxury.

Cow on the Camino

When is too many cases of food poisoning or mistreatment of farm workers too many? Friends constantly tease me about my food and product choices. Does organic really make a difference if we are going to die anyway? Does your skin care have to be paraben free if we have been using the other stuff for years and we are “fine”? Does local matter when it’s expensive and the cheaper food “employs” many workers?

I say, tease me all you want. Call me a food snob all you want. Meanwhile, I will continue to make food and other product choices that, in an environment where nothing Is guaranteed, I can do my part to try and lead a better quality of life and try and help others to do the same.

Salad

I’m joining folks like Melissa (Food Fighters of the USA) who are finding positive food models around the U.S. and Bill Marler who are fighting the good fight. To get us back to a place where eating, whether across Spain or somewhere else, is again a social and gastronimical pleasure and celebration of life, we cannot be complacent and let others do all the work.

Let’s lend a hand.

Eating the Camino Way

Speaking of hands, the octopus has eight. Okay, they aren’t hands, but you get what I mean. In Galicia, pulpo is famous and for good reason. The two best places to enjoy them: Pulperia Luis in Sarria and Pulperia Ezequiel in Melide.

Pulpo, Melide, Spain

Cooking octopus can be tricky: tough and chewy or mushy if not done properly, but the Galicians know how to do it right. Many recipes call for bay leaves, garlic, and potatoes – all great, though what we had was pretty straightforward, simple, and stupendous.

The key here: fresh, fresh octopus.

Making pulpo

If you get it fresh, it’s a great idea to freeze it first for one or two days to get it more tender (defrost slowly in refrigerator).

Pulpo Luis, Sarria, Spain

Pulpo a la Gallega
Serves 4-6

1 3-lb. octopus, cleaned
Extra virgin olive oil
Course sea salt
Spanish smoked paprika

1. Dip octopus in boiling water (tentacles first), take out when water returns to boil.
2. Repeat dip and removal five more times.
3. Submerge and simmer for 45 minutes or until tender.
4. Remove from heat and let sit for 10 minutes.
5. Drain and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
6. Drizzle olive oil and season with sea salt. Be generous with paprika. Serve on round wooden plate and toothpicks.

Lila Avery-Fuson and her daughter, Abigail

When you think of lavender, do you immediately begin to relax? The aromatherapy and healing benefits of lavender are a favorite around the world—but particularly important to Lila Avery-Fuson. In 2005, Lila found herself coping with a diagnosis of Multiple Sclerosis. Headaches, sleeplessness and the side effect of medications were robbing her energy. Lila reached for essential oils to help her relax, lift her spirits and boost her immune system.

With a three year-old daughter, Lila needed every ounce of energy she could get. She studied and learned about lavender. As a science major, Lila reached out to the leaders of the essential oils industry to learn more about essential oils. With the help of her husband and father, Lila started Central Coast Lavender Farm and distillery in 2006, planting over 4 acres of lavender.

Central Coast Lavender is now the largest lavender producer on the Central Coast. “Lavender took me from being a victim of the MS diagnosis,” says Lila, “to a champion and ambassador for essential oils.”

Central Coast Lavender Farm - A Lavender Still

Working from the land, giving back to the land.
Central Coast Lavender Farm is founded on a love for nature and a passion for the beauty and healing benefits of Lavender. Lila explains: “From our Certified Organic Green growing methods through our manufacture right here on the farm, we create the purest, most natural paraben and sulfate-free products. And we take delight in sharing the beauty of nature’s finest and most versatile herb in our estate-grown & distilled lavender.”

Lila practices sustainable Organic agriculture with Green farming methods to benefit the environment. After extracting the essential oils, she uses the remaining lavender plant matter to fertilize her fields with a nutrient high in nitrogen. Irrigation is off-grid; the fields are watered using gravity-fed lines. “At our farm, we take an unwavering stance toward the protection and sustainability of our natural planet and the delicate rhythms which harmonize the ebb and flow from day to day. This follows the simple, yet powerful Native American dictum: ‘The frog does not drink up the pond in which it lives.’”

Central Coast Lavender Farm

Central Coast Lavender Farm’s products are enjoyed all over the world. Lila’s personal favorites? Her 100% pure lavender essential oil, in its concentrate. “And our Therapeutic Healing Butter. I use soy and aloe vera with sunflower seed oil blended with an apothecary of healing essential oils; our lavender essential oil, tea-tree oil and others. It’s an absolute healing, anti-inflammatory butter for every ache and pain. Love this one!”

Lavender essential oil is naturally an anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibiotic and much more. Lavender essential oil is the “spirit of the lavender plant’s immune system.” The process of extracting the essence of the plant, via steam distillation, allow the purest of these properties in an oil form.

Central Coast Lavender - Product

How the healing benefits of lavender were discovered:
Gattefossé, a perfume chemist, in Cologne, France, began research into the healing powers of essential oils in the early 1900s after he accidentally burned his hand in his laboratory. On reflex, he immersed his burned hand in the nearest liquid, which happened to be lavender oil. He was quite impressed by how quickly the burn healed without infection and with no visible scar. Gattefossé is credited with coining the word “aromatherapy.”

Medicine Chest in a bottle:
Lila, her customers, and fans continue to be delighted by the health benefits of lavender, known by aromatherapists as the “medicine chest in a bottle.”

Anxiety and depression. The essential oil of lavender has a calming, sedative, and anti-convulsive effect. It can also increase the effectiveness of other relaxants.

Insomnia. A study conducted at the University of Leicester in England showed that the use of lavender essential oil is just as effective in promoting sound sleep as traditional medication. In fact, many British hospitals offer their patients lavender pillows to help with sleeplessness.

Scrapes and wounds. Lavender essential oil has very powerful antiseptic properties. Applying it to wounds can not only increase cell growth causing the wound to heal faster, but keep it free of infection.

Headaches. Massaging lavender oil onto your temples, neck and forehead can relieve neck and head tension and promote relaxation, thus relieving a variety of headaches.

Skin problems. You can massage lavender oil into your skin to treat a number of skin problems such as acne, burns, dry skin, eczema, itchy skin, sunburn, seborrhea, and skin inflammation.

Women’s health problems. Lavender can diminish the look of stretch marks and scars. It can relieve cramps, edema, exhaustion, and infection.

Central Coast Lavender - Center Field Looking North

Favorite Lavender Recipes
As a member of the mint family, lavender can be enjoyed holistically in teas, confections and spice blending. As an herb, lavender can be used daily. You can join Lila’s Elite Lavender Club for more recipes, lavender healing tips, and lavender essentials.

Here are a few of Lila’s favorite Lavender recipes:

Lavender Lemonada, Central Coast Lavender

Lavender Lemonade
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon dried lavender blooms stripped from stems
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, strained
Ice cubes
Lavender sprigs for garnish

Combine sugar with 2 1/2 cups water in a medium pan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Add the lavender blooms to the sugar water, cover, and remove from heat. Let stand at least 20 minutes (and up to several hours).
Strain mixture and discard lavender. Pour infusion into a glass pitcher. Add lemon juice and another 2 1/2 cups water. Stir well and watch lemonade change color.
Pour into tall glasses half-filled with ice or refrigerate until ready to use.

Lavender Shortbread, Central Coast Lavender

Lavender Shortbread Cookies

3 cups unsalted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
6 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 T. vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 T. dried lavender buds

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Sift flour and salt. Add to butter mixture and stir until well incorporated. Add vanilla extract, lemon extract, and lavender buds. Form dough into logs roll in lavender colored sugar and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm. Slice dough into 1/2 thick slices. Lay cookie slices on parchment lined baking sheet. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until edges are slightly golden. Sprinkle with lavender powdered sugar!

Lavender Scones
2 cups flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
4 Tablespoon butter
1/4 Cup sugar
2 Teaspoon fresh lavender florets or 1 Teaspoon dried culinary lavender roughly chopped
About 2/3 Cup milk

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Sift together the flour and baking powder. Rub the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar and lavender florets, reserving a pinch of lavender to sprinkle on the top of the scones before baking them.
Add enough milk to make a soft, sticky dough. Bind the mixture together and then turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface. Shape the dough into a circle, gently patting the top to give a 1inch depth. Using a floured cutter. Stamp out 12 scones. Place on a baking sheet.
Brush the tops with a little milk and sprinkle with the reserved lavender. Bake for 10-12 minutes until golden. Serve warm, with plum jam and clotted cream.

Because of Lila’s energy and enthusiasm, she has gathered the growers from the entire Central Coast region of California and has formed the Central Coast Lavender Growers Association- a non-profit organization with a mission to support one another to promote lavender. It is with this non-profit’s annual Central Coast Lavender Festival, that Lila can give back by donating a portion of the proceeds to the National Multiple Sclerosis Foundation. Now, Lila is busier than ever – planning the 3rd Annual Central Coast Lavender Festival, for July 9, 2011. Lila is also a sought-after speaker at lavender celebrations and will be featured at the June 26th Ojai Valley Lavender Festival.

Braided heirloom corn from family fields. This corn will continue to dry and be used as a food source.

The answer to this is complex. There is much to be said of popular journalists like Pollan whose work has reached many in the U.S. who otherwise may not have become conscientious about the role of industry in food production, which has had damaging social, economic, environmental and health results. Understanding food sources and processes is undeniably a good thing—to know where your food comes from and to teach others, like your own family and children, to also question and explore.

Harvesting white corn at my family farm in Peru

However, while watching a recent Oprah episode where Pollan was a guest and Oprah staff were challenged to go vegan for a week, I was struck by two thoughts, like little lighbulbs going off above my head. Mind you, these thoughts are tangents that actually have very little to do with Pollan whose investigative approach to some of the biggest diet problems of our time is highly influential. The first thought I had was when Pollan asserted that American tradition has historically included eating meat—“we are big meat-eaters in this country, we always have been”—which is why he believed many Americans struggle with the idea of not eating meat. Pollan’s personal choice was to eat meat provided by sustainable farmers who could offer naturally-raised alternatives to the current standard of hormone-infused, questionably raised animals. While the number of conscientious farmers in both rural and urban contexts grows, hopefully setting a new standard, the notion of any singular American historical tradition begs the question—whose tradition?

A meat rack in Little Italy, New York (I think for St. Anthony's celebration)

The second issue I was struck by was that in making an argument for veganism, Oprah’s guest Kathy Freston pointed out that Pollan’s selection of meat was not affordable for many—to which Oprah responded jokingly that she could afford it. The problem is that many of us, especially those with large families, single-parent households and others struggling with the ups and downs (and waaaay downs) of our economy, cannot consistently afford these options.

In no way is this intended to be a diatribe against Pollan, Oprah or Freston. But what these little lightbulbs intend to point out is that 1) There is a disparity between good food and cost and 2) There is a long history of food practices often swallowed up or marginalized by the notion of any singular American tradition. For example, in the Americas, which include Canada, the U.S., Central and South America, there are long-standing cultural traditions where meat was historically not the staple of daily diets. While we are all impacted in some way (some more than others) to issues of access, affordability and conscientiousness about food, I believe we also need to look for the strengths in all of our communities that are reminders of existing and potential resistance to industrial food monocultures. It’s important to be aware of and open to the understanding that conscientiousness comes in many forms and traditions that are part of the fabric of these lands.

Bison at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. Wild bison was an ancestral food source for many American Indian peoples.

For example, many Indigenous communities represent sites where the worst violations of human relationships with food have occurred and where the best practices in food conscientiousness can be found side by side. Working with Indigenous communities in North and South America, and being an Indigenous person from Peru, I have seen how our disconnect from food traditions for various reasons has resulted in our deteriorating physical, mental, emotional and spiritual health. But I have also seen food traditions maintained and revitalized where conscientiousness is ingrained in amazing cultural practices. For example, in my community in the highland Andes, we raise animals from birth, care for them, love them, work alongside them. Children in my community are raised with a sense of responsibility for small to large animals and develop empathy as a result. We believe that every living thing merits our respect and attention—from our water sources to our trees and mountains, to the very crops we plant. Furthermore, in my community, eating meat is not a daily affair. We prefer grains, corn, vegetables, legumes, potatoes. Meat is reserved for special occasions.

Anishinaabe fishermen will set out to spear walleye during spring each year, exercising their treaty rights with the U.S. government.

In other parts of the Indigenous Americas, the process of hunting for meat is seasonal, carefully planned and involves various traditions that bring together family and community and where respect is demonstrated through offerings made to the animals. Nothing is ever supposed to be just taken. For example, among Algonkian peoples, stories are told of the beautiful gifts of life that each living creature, from plants to animals, made at the time of creation of human beings. These stories serve as cultural markers for Indigenous people that remind us of the instructions provided to us by our ancestors—how to live well with everything around us.

Amazing artwork by Ojibwe painter Rabbett Strickland. Title: Assimilation. Citation: http://www.rabbettstricklandgiclees.com/artwork.htm

These beliefs were prevalent prior to the subjugation of Indigenous peoples in the Americas, and understanding this history shows us just how deep attacks on food traditions can be. For example, during different periods in history, Indigenous peoples in the U.S. were forced to give up their lands, religious practices, their lifestyles and even their children to make way for settler expansion and domination where Indigenous people were considered sub-human. Starting in the 19^th century, entire Indigenous hunting, fishing, farming and gathering societies were forced onto reservations where they were not allowed to leave and made to be dependent upon government rations of processed foods. Known as commodities, these foods, many of which were given to starving people, were not only often rotten, but also a complete departure from the natural way of living Indigenous people had known for thousands of years.

The proposal for Indigenous people to reclaim their foods has been strongly made by Indigenous scholars, researchers and community members, as instrumental to a process known as decolonization, or resisting, reclaiming and rebuilding Indigenous communities.

Given these histories, it’s not hard to see why the notion of what is American tradition needs a lot of work. We need to understand how diverse cultures, including Indigenous communities, have been impacted by past and present attacks on their food systems, while simultaneously recognizing that “tradition” is made up of lots cultures—European, Asian, Latin American, African, and so forth—that carry histories and lessons that we can all share.

My absolute favorite: Indian pies and cookies made by my dear friend's mother for a Jemez Pueblo feast day

Today, in spite of our difficult histories, Indigenous communities in the Americas still exercise traditions that assert strong beliefs about land and foods. We offer our prayers and our actions to demonstrate that we still remember how to live carefully. Yes, we have been invaded for a very long time by non-foods, Western chemicals and now GMOs, but we also have within our communities generationally-perpetuated ways of nurturing foods. And these ways do not cost a lot, just our time, just our participation.

Wild rice just harvested by canoe by Wisconsin Anishinaabe men. The rice is considered one of the sacred foods of the Anishinaabe and will nourish many families throughout the year.

You may be thinking that regardless, it does cost more to produce real food in the U.S., especially with an organic label. But isn’t it interesting that what is considered normal (as in naturally-produced foods) in Indigenous communities like mine, is so prized now by wealthier post-industrial societies? Just as important as asking how we’ve gotten away from these practices is asking why we’ve gotten so far away. We have only to examine our histories, including both how we’ve been targeted and how we’ve resisted, to start learning some answers.

I would argue that it’s not necessarily about the price tag. Our food issues require more than trying to be conscientious about food through learning about its sources and critiquing unsustainable agribusiness. What is required is a re-examination of our history, our humanity, our cultural philosophies, and our own daily practices where our beliefs are enacted in order to remember that we all have instructions rooted somewhere that remind us how to live well with each other and our earth.

Source: GreenDeals

Can you believe it? I can’t.

Over the last several years, the issue of what is real, authentic food has surfaced, oftentimes loudly with great passion on all sides. I loved the discussion y’all brought on about my post about being a snob and eating organically. It definitely isn’t easy, and sometimes, just too expensive for me. But as some of you raised, even the food industry has corrupted that word – labels sometimes show up that says organic, but is not.

A U.K. food company director was jailed for fraud – he stuck “organic” labels on food that was pumped of synthetic additives.

Organic foods from China are not always what they seem, according to a Public Radio International report. But the organic food industry is a $26 billion one in the U.S. Lots of money to be had.

The Cornucopia Institute, an advocacy group promoting family-scale farming, filed formal complaints against Target in 2009 that some of its products labeled organic were not really organic. According to the complaints, some of the companies that sell through Target, like Dean Foods, quietly shifted away from organic ingredients taking advantage of consumer confusion of “organic” and “natural” labels.

Meanwhile, many local, small-scale family farms may grow and harvest everything organically and according to the guidelines of the Organic Trade Association, but don’t want to or have the resources to go through the hoops and costs of getting the pretty little certified organic label.

Yet everywhere we turn, we see “REAL FOOD,” “PURE,” “NATURAL,” “AUTHENTIC,” “ORGANIC.” What does it all really mean? Kelly the Kitchen Kop just raised a most fascinating discussion about whether Qorn and other “meatless meat” products are real food.

How do you define food versus foodstuffs?

What I do know is that I’m confused and wary of what’s out there.

I’m not obsessive – I do like my Bojangles once or twice a year, and I won’t say no to the peanut M&Ms at the movie theatre. But I find myself having a hard time sometimes describing how I want to eat – food that my great-grandmother would recognize, food that tastes right because it hasn’t been invented in a test tube, food that I don’t have to wonder will give any children I have two heads or an extra finger (though that COULD come in handy in some cases, the finger, not the head). I want plums that don’t make my lip to swell up anymore because it was washed in “good for me” pesticides. I want beef jerky made with nothing but beef and spices, and not that beef stick stuff you find in roadside convenient stores.

I want good food, but since I can’t seem to call this food, “real” or “authentic” or “pure” anymore, as these words have been corrupted, I’m making up a new word.

I’m calling the food I want frank food.

Why frank food? Frank means: forthright, honest, blunt, truthful, candid, aboveboard. Frank foods by definition cannot be adulterated. It is aboveboard. Frank food unabashedly tells you what it is, and it will tell you truthfully when you’re lying.

Frank food is a real, goodness apple that is guileless, unadulterated and uncorrupted with pesticides. Frank food is butter, made with frank milk, free of rBGH and hormones – not margarine or Crisco or something else created out of a laboratory. Frank food is the grass-fed, free-range roadmeat that Hunger and Thirst harvests, fresh and local.

Frank food is what our dear friend at Eat Well, Eat Cheap raised as a great new year’s resolution, inspired by Salon’s Francis Lam who vows to no longer eat “cheap chicken.” Instead, frank chicken is well, frankly, chicken. Nothing added. Since frank chicken costs more, for me, that also means less chicken and meat, which is not a bad thing.

Another frank food is dal, a traditional thick stew usually of lentils or or beans, found in many South Asian cuisines. This Dal is courtesy of Zomppa Tsering, a recipe passed down for generations in the Indo-Tibet region. This frank food is also fairly inexpensive to prepare – hooray! The measurements may be a bit off, I tend to be very generous with my spices – I throw them in until I like the color and keep adding. This dish is chock full of protein, healthy, easy, and can last for days – just freeze any leftovers. I made this in my fancy new Christmas present!

Truly, a frank food without much pretense. It is what it is, and what it always has been.

Zomppa’s Dal with Spinach

Dal with Spinach (courtesy of Zomppa Tsering)
1 cup dry red lentils (soak for at least an hour)
1 red onion, chopped
2 TB ground ginger
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 TB turmeric
2 TB cumin powder
1/2 tsp chili powder or chili flakes (optional)
2 large tomatoes, finely chopped
1 bag baby spinach
3 cups water, chicken or vegetable stock
Oil

1. In large pot, saute onions in 2 TB oil until translucent
2. Add garlic and ginger, saute for 30 seconds
3. Add turmeric for 30 seconds – do not burn
4. Add tomatoes and saute until well mixed and soft
5. Add cumin
6. Add lentils and combine well, add additional spices if so desired, constantly stir for 2-3 minutes – do not burn
7. Add water or stock. Adjust according to thickness desired (lentils will soak up liquid)
8. Salt to taste
9. Cook over medium heat until lentils are soft (about 20 minutes)
10. Add baby spinach in last 5 minutes of cooking

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But the lucky of us ate.

Candy Cane Chocolate Marshmallows (recipe below)

(You didn’t think I was going to close out the year without an “sound the alarm” post, did you?) Imagine: going to get food and then getting killed because of nothing you did other than getting food for your family. On Christmas Day, while many of us (including myself) were happily gorging themselves on cookies, cakes, and pies, 43 people were killed trying to get food at a World Food Programme distribution point in Pakistan.

Lemon Sugar Cookies (recipe below)

Or imagine not having enough food to make the tummy stop growling. In the U.S., 1 out of every 7 person in the U.S. lives on food stamps. The middle class is the newest class to be dependent on food stamps. About 1 in 6 children were food insecure, aka, not enough food. Check out CNN’s Eatocracy’s report.

German Butterman (recipe below)

The bright spots are the numerous organizations and programs out there, such as Share Our Strength and backpack buddy programs, which provide countless of meals to those who need it. Especially in a tight economy, we must dig in to offer support so those food pantries are not depleted after the holiday rush, we must volunteer extra weekend hours to help stock or serve food after the holiday volunteer boom.

Berry Rugelach (recipe below)

It makes enjoying cooking, baking, and eating more personally satisfying as well, when you’ve helped someone else out too. Check out your local food pantries to see what you can throughout the year. Give to organizations like WFP – your donations count for 2010 if you do it by tomorrow!

Rosemary Pecan Shortbread (recipe below)

I am one of the lucky ones. I can eat. I can cook. And that I did for the holidays.

Paprika Parmigiano Pinwheels (recipe below)

Admittedly, these cookies and snacks were a big hit. And if I continue to eat them at the rate I have been this holiday, I will have some serious health issues. But they sure were fun to make and even more fun to share and make others smile.

These are made with real food, authentic food. No substitutes here. Of course, my favorite Kerrygold butter, I believe, makes all the difference in the world. (recipes below). Warning: the lemon sugar cookies are addictive, the German butterman are naughty, and the marshmallows are simply sinful.

Before we close this year out, for those who have been reading and supporting us, thank you for making us a part of your daily reads. In a year of meeting many new foodies friends online, we thank you for sharing your lives with us. For those of you who had some real ups and downs this year (Baby Ryan, you’re never far from our thoughts), indulge Mariah Carey’s rather Zen-like attitude.

I have learned that beauty has to flourish in the light
Wild horses run unbridled or their spirit dies
You have given me the courage to be all that I can
And I truly feel your heart will lead you back to me
When you’re ready to land

I can’t pretend these tears aren’t over flowing steadily
I can’t prevent this hurt from almost overtaking me
But I will stand and say goodbye for you’ll never be mine
Until you know the way it feels to fly

If you should return to me
We truly were meant to be
So spread your wings and fly
Butterfly

It sounds terribly cliche, but this is a good time to count your blessings, to let bygones be bygones, to let go of regret and guilt, to look forward to a fresh start in 2011, and to celebrate and enjoy the wonders everywhere (including those 20 inches of snow – lucky!)

Goodbye, 2010!

Candy Cane Chocolate Marshmallows

Candy Cane Chocolate Marshmallows
24 marshmallows
2 ounces fair-trade dark chocolate
2 ounces fair-trade milk chocolate
6 organic candy canes, crushed

1. Crush candy canes (use bottom of a glass, mallet, whatever works)
2. Over double burner (or other concoction where the chocolate doesn’t touch the water), melt chocolate
3. Dip marshmallow into chocolate, then into crushed candy cane
4. Set on wax paper
5. Chill for at least an hour or until chocolate hardens
6. Store in airtight container
7. Enjoy alone or dunk in a mug of hot chocolate.

Zomppa’s Lemon Sugar Cookies

Lemon Sugar Cookies
2 1/2 cup flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 lb. butter, room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 large eggs
zest of 1 Meyer lemon
1 tsp vanilla

1. Sift flour, baking powder, salt, and lemon zest
2. Mix butter and sugar at medium for 3 minutes
3. Add eggs, one at a time
4. Add vanilla
5. Slowly add dry ingredients and mix at low (don’t overdo it)
6. Chill in refrigerator for at least one hour
7. Roll out about 1/4 inch thick
8. Bake 15 minutes at 350F

German Butterman

German Butterman
3 cups flour
1 TB cinnamon
1/8 tsp salt
1/2 lb. butter
1 1/8 cup sugar
1 egg
1 egg white, beaten
1/4 cup Riesling or other fruity white wine

1. Sift flour, cinnamon, and salt
2. Mix butter and sugar at medium until fluffy
3. Add egg
4. Alternate between dry ingredients and wine, 1/3 at a time
5. Chill in refrigerator for at least one hour
6. Flour surface area and roll out 1/4 inch thick
7. Use gingerbread man cookie cutter
8. Brush surface with egg white
9. Bake 20 minutes at 350F

Zomppa’s Berry Rugelach

Berry Rugelach
Ready made pie dough
3 TB sugar
3/4 cup all berry spread

1. Put sugar on work surface
2. Lay pie dough on it and press gently so it picks up the sugar
3. Spread berry…spread
4. Roll tight
5. Chill in refrigerator for at least 1 hour
6. Slice into 3/4 inch thick pieces
7. Bake for 25 minutes in 400F

Rosemary Pecan Shortbread

Rosemary Pecan Shortbread adapted from Angie’s Recipes
1 1/2 cup flour
14 TB butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 TB rosemary
1/3 cup chopped pecans

1. Mix flour and butter on low-medium
2. Add sugar, egg yolk, and rosemary and mix on medium
3. Add pecans and gently work into dough
4. Roll into long cylinder and wrap in plastic
5. Chill in refrigerator for at least one hour
6. Slice
7. Bake for 20 minutes at 350F

Paprika Parmigiano Pinwheels

Paprika Parmigiano Pinwheels
1 sheet puff pastry
1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 tsp paprika
Dash of chili powder
Olive oil

1. Mix cheese, paprika and chili powder
2. Brush both sides of puff pastry with olive oil
3. Sprinkle 2/3 of cheese mix onto puff pastry
4. Fold both sides into each other, so outside edges meet in middle
5. Sprinkle rest of cheese mix
6. Fold both sides again into middle
7. Tighten
8. Slice (chill in refrigerator helps to hold shape)
9. Bake 10-12 minutes at 400F until browned

Organic foods do not always had a good reputation. People have criticized the likes of Chef Ann Cooper and Alice Waters saying that they don’t understand “regular” people who cannot afford organic foods. It seems there may be a “cultural war,” as Washington Post’s Brent Cunningham and Jane Black write about.

True, organic foods tends to be more expensive. But is the “crusade against fast and processed food…an obsession of ‘elites’…and not ‘real Americans’?

The answer is no. Actually, those who try and make this a “crusade” are missing the entire point.

Does it make me un-American to support local American family farmers, our American children from growing breasts prematurely, or raise awareness among our American neighbors that food is something to value and appreciate, not something that is conducted out of scientific laboratories for the dollar menu?

Does it make me an elitist to spend a little more on what goes into my body and into those for whom I cook? I don’t own $100 handbags. I carry a little bag that came free with a purchase. I don’t wear $500 shoes. I wear my shoes until the soles start to separate.

Yes, I was one of those who spent more money on an heirloom turkey and ham from local NC hogs. But when I start hearing about 7-year old girls developing breasts, and my own lip starts puffing up when I eat conventional apples (it took me years to realize it was the pesticides I was allergic to), I realize that my food purchases are at least something I have control over and I don’t see it as a cultural war, I see it as a way to watch my health, support my community and value food.

In the U.S., I know I’m fortunate to have the option to purchase organic foods. The organic industry isn’t this well developed in every country. Remember the cooking oil scandal in China where oil was recycled from sewers? That has prompted a movement in organic farming there, though it is not nearly as widespread as it is here.

Or as well developed as Canada, which has fairly sophisticated local food systems, like the Concordia Food Systems Project. Local food, like organic food, can be pricier than conventional foods, because the economies of scale are far smaller.

But local food supports local economies and tends to be provide fairer wages for farmers and producers. When we pay higher prices for local or organic foods, we forget that for the most part, we underpay for our food. Food has long been cheap, often due to the unfair wages paid to laborers. As I was making this super easy Tomato Mushroom Egg Bake (this photo series, recipe below), I was somewhat comforted by the fact that even though my tomato was $0.30 more per pound, I knew that the people who picked it were compensated fairly.

This is not always the case. The tomato industry, in particular, is notorious. Wages haven’t risen in 30 years. A person who can pick a TON a day, might make $50 a day. Of course, a ton a day doesn’t happen. This wage, of course, doesn’t include health care or other benefits.

So I am willing to pay more for local and/or organic foods. But I’m not a wealthy person (monetarily), so I try and make my dollar stretch just like the next person. Since I had already had eggs, milk tomatoes, etc. on hand for the Tomato Mushroom Egg Bake (photos above, recipe below), I figured I’d utilize as many of the same ingredients the next day for another hearty breakfast.

This Ham and Egg Pastry Pie (recipe below) allowed me to stretch the dozen eggs, the cheese, etc., so I only had to purchase a few additional ingredients. I plan a week in advance so that I make different – but similar enough – dishes together so I can maximize the purchase.

This way, I avoid the last minute – oh-it’d-be-cheaper-to-pick-up-fast-food-breakfast where the eggs aren’t really eggs and everything is processed.

As Tom Philpott, a financial journalist-turned-farmer who helps run Maverick Farms in North Carolina (an educational non-profit promoting sustainable agriculture and local community development) argues, it is possible to afford organic food. A lot has to change to change the food system – policies, personal choices – but we all too often forget the real cost of food is not just on the sticker price.

Call me an elitist if you want. If that’s what it means, I’m proud to be a snob.

Tomato Mushroom Egg Bake

Tomato Mushroom Egg Bake
2 English muffins
1 tomato, chopped
1/2 cup baby portobello mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup gruyere, grated
Olive Oil
4 eggs
2 green onions, chopped
Salt
Pepper
1 TB dried basil, crushed
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 milk

1. In skillet, heat olive oil
2. Add chopped tomatoes and mushrooms and cook for about 10 minutes until soft. Season with salt and pepper
3. In bowl, whisk eggs, milk, basil, and garlic
4. When tomato/mushroom mix is ready, take off heat source and cool
5. In small casserole dish, place English muffin at bottom
6. Top with tomato/mushroom mix
7. Pour egg mix over everything
8. Wrap with cellophane and put in refrigerator overnight
9. The next day, take out and keep at room temperature for 45 minutes
10. Add gruyere cheese
11. Cook for 50 minutes at 375F

Ham and Egg Pastry Pie

Ham and Egg Pastry Pie
1 sheet puff pastry
5 eggs
1/2 pound ham
2 green onions, chopped
1 TB milk
1/4 cup Parmigiano Reggiano

1. Cut puff pastry sheet in quarters
2. Put one quarter of the puff pastry in each small casserole dish (one of two) or ramekin
3. Add 1/4 of the ham in each dish
4. Crack two eggs in each dish – poke gently so eggs runs slightly
5. Add green onions
6. Layer the rest of the ham
7. Put top layer of puff pastry and press
8. Mix 1 egg, milk, and cheese in separate dish and use as wash over each pie
9. Bake for 20 minutes at 350F

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